Bay of Islands at last

 

Opua Cruising Club

Spring has sprung.

A small gap in the blog previously.   I was busy writing six stories for Cruising Helmsman.  Two were published in June and July, and four more are begging to be published.  I’ll give the commercial stuff a break until they squeal for more.  The admiral and I are thankfully in a rugby free zone in the Bay of Islands.  Unless we anchor off a town for newspapers or tune into the radio, we remain unaware of the latest surrogate world war happening in fields in New Zealand towns that have been financed largely by local ratepayers. ’

Yes, it sprung about the first of this month, but nothing prevents the aptly named cold fronts marching across Northland through the Bay of Islands where we are now roaming.  We had good shelter in Oke Bay, which has sparkling clear water is just south of Cape Brett.   The fishing was good out there, and a little waterfall sprinkles onto a rocky part of the beach where dirty yachties can shower or do their clothes in the same way ancient explorers would have done, and probably where the locals used to get their water.

This spot is also the junction where trampers take off along the ridge to Cape Brett.  The head of the bay has a dazzling white beach, an attraction for sweaty travelers who strip off to cool their bodies in the sea.  The bay is protected at the mouth by an island where Marion and I once dived to collect our first mussels, not realising that the smaller ones were sweeter.  We were spoiled for mussels at low water in the south island, but  here we will have to dive for them.  The convoluted side shores are typical northland rocky foreshore with seaweed, grading up to tea tree and pohutukawha.

On a saddle where the track joins the road, patrons of the local cemetery enjoy the best views in town and  nearby, a huge new holiday home house sits incongruously above the modest dwellings of Rawhiti.

Tide rode in Whitianga.

We motored in for a three week stay and were forced to go onto a mooring when we became tide rode one morning.  I had to motor in reverse for two hours before calling the harbourmaster for a mooring. This unpleasant event happens in strong wind when the boat sails over the anchor chain, which can wrap around the keel.  Many moons ago, in Wild Honey we woke up at three am in the Opua esturary when our rope warp became tangled on the keel, the boat assuming a position perpendicular to the current direction.  I had to buoy the warp, let it go, then motor back to pick it up and anchor again.

When we were offered a mooring nearby and jumped at the chance to tie up securely in this worrisome estuary.   On the morning of our departure by bus, a tsunami warning was given after a Kermadec earthquake.   Several boats were leaving for the security of the ocean.   The habourmaster assured us things would be fine.  What the heck, our boat is steel, and the mooring strong.

We travelled to my parents in Tauranga by bus, defeated by the weather.  Marinas are demanding insurance now, so a berth there was out of the question.  How things change. We might be now doomed to sailing forever without ever tying a line to shore.  I am not going to start paying insurance after  33 years of sailing. Unless…

Derek and Dorothy Preece.

Agent antidiesel bug for clean tank

On our last day, while motoring out of Whitianga, an old acquaintance Derek called me to say he was living in the Whitianga waterways, and would I like to come up for two nights.  We had last visited them in Whitianga in 1979 when Wild Honey was on an event filled maiden voyage, Marion and I just 25 and 26. Back then Derek was building a big wooden boat called Hibiscus, which they later sailed to Tahiti.  Today they are doing up their large wooden ketch beside their house.  It is an admirable project, looking after a finely crafted boat.

Our friends Dorothy and Derek aboard their lovely yacht.

Dorothy and Derek were hosting an informal yachties’ smorgasbord get together and we were welcome to tie up to their boat and join the party. This was a monthly event that rotated around an informal group of cruising yachties in the area.  Never ones to miss a good stir, Marion and I turned around and motored up the river into the waterways .  It was also an opportunity to do a bit of work drilling a hole in our diesel tank so I could fit an inspection hatch after the recent drama of our fuel woes.

The party was fun, and the tank work was noisy and smelly.   The stay was memorable and we have a great memory of Whitianga.   Many thanks Dorothy and Derek.

Gunkholing in the Te Puna inlet.

We happened per chance to bump into a lady on one of our exercise sessions in the hinterland of the Bay of Islands.  Discovered  we had mutual acquaintances, and also that she and her husband had set up a small boat haul business up the Te Puna inlet.   The admiral and I moored Wild Bird then dinghy motored up to their yard and residence via a creek, past oyster farms and a few maritime liveaboards.  Heather and Ron Hackett have a 30 tonne slip way accessible at high water with power and water available.  It is only half an hour drive from Kerikeri and offers an alternative haul out to boaties in the BOI.  Heather showed us around their property, a great example of what pioneering and hard work can do.  They have a small chart to show prospective clients the route to their slipway.  The Hacket’s slipway below is worth a look.

 

the Te Puna inlet slipway

 

 

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New home for Wild Bird

Mooring in Opua

About 30 years ago we had a mooring made up and dropped at Tapu Point in the Bay of Islands.  It was for our yacht Wild Honey, a Hartley 32 foot ferro yacht that I had recently finished constructing over a three year period.  The Admiral has always joked that it was her surrogate engagement ring.  (Well, what would you do, have a ring on your finger or a large ring on the sea bed?  The choice was obvious.) We never extended ourselves to such a luxury…the finger ring that was, and a secure concrete block on the sea bed seemed to be a much more sensible acquisition.  The Bay of Islands in Northland was the primo cruising ground of New Zealand, and back then, there were no marinas in the area anyway.

I had already ‘launched’ a mooring in Tauranga myself circa 1978.  This was a two tonne mooring made to high specs.  It was made on the nearby beach by filling a metal hoop ring with concrete and reinforcing. The bottom sand was heaped up so that a concave shape would enable the mooring to suck into the mud and stick.   A large steel D ring poked out the top, locked in with much reinforcing.    Heavy and light chain was then attached, a rope riser fixed onto the chain with a buoy on top.  These were cowboy times, when a licence was not required, and no particular spaces allocated.   It was cured by the cycles of several tides.   Three days later I fixed four 44 gallon drums to the top, and floated the whole caboose out using a dinghy at high tide.   At the spot X, I chopped the rope holding it and presto, it sunk to the bottom.  Well, I tell you, it was exactly the same thing that has to be done using professional services today.   And, it was made for a fraction of the cost of a professional one done today.  Oh yes, I know about inflation, but today one pays about $3000 for a new mooring.   However, that is if a space is available.

The Bay of Islands mooring was made by so called professional workers, but I had supplied the chain.  For the cost of a dozen beer, I was gifted a length of ship’s anchor chain that was not wanted on the site of a major engineering works in Whangarei.   The shackle was about 60mm diameter itself!  (The cross sectional size of the ring metal.)  Sadly I could not make this one myself, and handed it over to be made up.  We sold it after Wild Honey was sold, and always lamented the loss of our private piece of marine real estate.

New spaces for moorings are like hen’s teeth. Mostly, they would be very far away from convenient dinghy launch spots anyway.    Therefore one has to look for existing moorings that are for sale. Recently, we discovered a notice for a mooring for sale at Tapu Point, so snapped it up.   It was newly serviced, and was only 100 metres from our original mooring.  It is opposite the lovely new Opua Cruising Club to which we intend to become members soon.   The block will save us expensive marina and/or mooring fees in the future when we have to attend family matters.  We now have a base for Wild Bird in the Bay of Islands.   A new adventure is ahead of us.  The adventure of meeting new friends, and revisiting our old cruising grounds awaits us.

In the pic below, Wild Honey used to be just left of centre, and our new mooring location is about in the centre.   What a blast from the past.   It is not too different from today, but back then we had our dinghy in the bush next to the ferry landing at Opua and used to row it under the wharf across to the mooring, fall asleep aboard WB the sail out to the Bay the next morning.   Perhaps a meal of fish and chips at Russell and a next day a sleep at Roberton Is.  But those were the days when we were working full time,  and the weekends were just too short.  Now, the weekends are just the right length.

Post script:  After gaining a job as caretakers in the outer Bay, we shifted Wild Bird to Waipiro Bay opposite Urapukapuka Is, and rented the mooring to visiting yachties.

However in the winter of 2014 a terrible easterly storm came through the bay and in the malstrom, our mooring was lost  when the boat on our mooring cut the head line.   The next story  is on the replacement mooring, one much bigger and heavier.   Now for rent.

30 year old pic of Tapu Point

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the genisis of Wild Bird

Oakura bach sold for Wild Bird

In Whangaruru Harbour, I built a house and fitted it out over five years.   At first the walls were paper, with dragons painted on for the kids.   The basement was filled in after we left, but it has good memories for us.   We sold it to finance Wild Bird. Beneath the house I stored a boat and engine.  The girls (four and five years) used to wake me in the dark to go fishing.

The girls used to swim here, and shelter in the shade.

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Coromandel Coast

little bay, Coromandel Coast

What can I say. A great day on the East Coast. Wild Bird is just only seen on the right below the point, in a bit to the right.  Unfortunately the stitch did not quite get the horizon ok.

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Laundry at Oke Bay

Ahh one of the great joys of cruising is doing the washing on a stony beach under a free flowing fresh water stream.   Tonnes of water for rinsing and no restrictions on supply.. . This is a repeat of many occasions.  Not quite warm enough to shower.  Read too cowardly to cool off.  Almost at Deep Water Cove, Oke bay also has a nice mussel supply at the entrance, but one has to be careful to take only the smallest.   This is not Abel Tasman where a good feed is available at low water – the mussels have to be dived on in the BOI.

The admiral hard at work washing clothes, Oke Bay

Cycle set to agifoot
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Spring has sprung

Spring has sprung.

A small gap in the blog previously.   I was busy writing six stories for Cruising Helmsman.  Two were published in June and July, and four more are begging to be published.  I’ll give the commercial stuff a break until they squeal for more.  The admiral and I are thankfully in a rugby free zone in the Bay of Islands.  Unless we anchor off a town for newspapers or tune into the radio, we remain unaware of the latest surrogate world war.  My friend Mike accuses me of killing people to prevent them watching the latest field battles.  I replied ‘Mike, I have killed very few doing so.’

Getting some much needed vitamin D, Mercury Island

Yes, it sprung about the first of this month, but nothing prevents the aptly named cold fronts marching across Northland through the Bay of Islands where we are now roaming.  We had good shelter in Oke Bay, which has sparkling clear water is just south of Cape Brett.   The fishing was good out there, and a little waterfall sprinkles onto a rocky part of the beach where dirty yachties can shower or do their clothes in the same way ancient explorers would have done, and probably where the locals used to get their water.

Urapukapuka Island, Wild Bird Campground bay.

This spot is also the junction where trampers take off along the ridge to Cape Brett.  The head of the bay has a dazzling white beach, an attraction for sweaty travelers who strip off to cool their bodies in the sea.  The bay is protected at the mouth by an island where Marion and I once dived to collect our first mussels, not realising that the smaller ones were sweeter.  We were spoiled for mussels at low water in the south island, but  here we will have to dive for them.  The convoluted side shores are typical northland rocky foreshore with seaweed, grading up to tea tree and pohutukawha.

On a saddle where the track joins the road, patrons of the local cemetery enjoy the best views in town and  nearby, a huge new holiday home house sits incongruously above the modest dwellings of Rawhiti.

Tide rode in Whitianga.

We motored in for a three week stay and were forced to go onto a mooring when we became tide rode one morning.  I had to motor in reverse for two hours before calling the harbourmaster for a mooring. This unpleasant event happens in strong wind when the boat sails over the anchor chain, which can wrap around the keel.  Many moons ago, in Wild Honey we woke up at three am in the Opua esturary when our rope warp became tangled on the keel, the boat assuming a position perpendicular to the current direction.  I had to buoy the warp, let it go, then motor back to pick it up and anchor again.

Sailing to Whitianga

When we were offered a mooring nearby and jumped at the chance to tie up securely in this worrisome estuary.   On the morning of our departure by bus, a tsunami warning was given after a Kermadec earthquake.   Several boats were leaving for the security of the ocean.   The habourmaster assured us things would be fine.  What the heck, our boat is steel, and the mooring strong.

We travelled to my parents in Tauranga by bus, defeated by the weather.  Marinas are demanding insurance now, so a berth there was out of the question.  How things change. We might be now doomed to sailing forever without ever tying a line to shore.  I am not going to start paying insurance after  33 years of sailing. Unless…

Derek and Dorothy Preece.

On our last day, while motoring out of Whitianga, an old acquaintance Derek called me to say he was living in the Whitianga waterways, and would I like to come up for two nights.  We had last visited them in Whitianga in 1979 when Wild Honey was on an event filled maiden voyage, Marion and I just 25 and 26. Back then Derek was building a big wooden boat called Hibiscus, which they later sailed to Tahiti.  Today they are doing up their large wooden ketch beside their house.  It is an admirable project, looking after a finely crafted boat.

Hmm I was wondering where that lost wrist watch got to!

This was also a good opportunity to fit a steel inspection lid onto the top of our steel diesel tank.  I needed power to drill and jigsaw the hole then drill and tap for screws to fasten the lid.   This was the first time we were able to see inside the tank after 20 years.  Horrible greebly stuff from diesel of dubious sources accumulated on the bottom.  A yukky but necessary job.  It was also necessary if the ‘bug’ struck us.

As a precaution, I treated the tank with Grotamar 71 to kill potential microbes.

Dorothy and Derek were hosting an informal yachties’ smorgasbord get together and we were welcome to tie up to their boat and join the party. This was a monthly event that rotated around an informal group of cruising people in the area.

Whitianga tie up at friends' place.

 

 

 

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Cruising Helmsman articles

View some adventures in Cruising Helmsman, in June edition (my Wild Honey) and July edition (changing an oil seal).

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Killer in Mercury Cove

It is so shallow in Mercury Cove that our keel almost scrapes the seabed.  One sparkling morning the Admiral and I were surprised by a small pod of killer whales scything the surface water as they entered for a reconnoiter of the bay for food.   Normally Orca will sine wave their way in, but the shallow water prevented their diving.  The daddy of the pod came gliding in only a metre from our stern, causing an audible sizzling as the tall dorsal fin cut through the water.  By the sound, it really did seem we were in the midst of a corny Jaws movie set.  I have heard that the NZ Orca feed only on sting ray, which are often seen in harbour shallows.

Daddy Orca scything past Wild Bird.

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Torment by tapping

Torment by tapping and a tribute to Willy Oliver.

Hopefully a quiet anchorage

The wind had been screaming in the rigging as we lay in the Whitianga River.  The barometer was indicating the low (956mb) pressure system passing deep to the south of us.  The Admiral and I had retired  to our berth, and despite the noise of whistling wind, tapping halyards, pinging wires inside the mast and the occasional log banging against the hull, we managed to single out one irregular  sound that was going to drive us bonkers unless we found the source.  Now, we have a protocol that I sleep on the outside of the berth, since any emergency could be seen to by my immediate leap out of bed.  In other words I drew the short straw.  Up I went, checking all manner of culprits. Tightened a few likely culprits. Back into bed, and it was then the Admiral’s turn.  No luck.  Tink tink tink.  I think it was the fifth venture into the stormy night that found the source, a loose inspection hatch.

The perfect anchorage is calm of swell and wind. Ex Tauranga, Mayor Island offers no such refuge.  In the seventies, Willy Oilver  in his seventies, working at Oliver boat builders swas a great raconteur.  One story that stuck was the time he was putting the lining into his good mate’s launch.  Into a copper pipe, he inserted a steel ball bearing, sealing off the ends. He then hacksawed small incisions along one side so the ball would make a regular tapping as it rolled from one end to the other.   This torture implement was inserted behind the ceiling lining in the gently cambered cabin top.  You can imagine this ingenious plot playing out on a calm night at Mayor Island when a light rolling swell always plays into South East Bay.

Now, how about the time he told a new-to-the- job  and not-so-bright fisherman to put a sea anchor out when entering the Mt entrance in an Easterly storm?  A bit of imagination can finish the story.


 

 

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On being tide rode

Whitianga, the joy of being tide rode.

Coralie Bay on Mercury Island, near Whitianga

A long time ago we sailed into Whitianga Harbour in Wild Honey the Hartley RORC 32 I had just built.   (See Cruising Helmsman, June p 18) The Admiral and I were on a ‘maiden voyage’ in May, 1978.  Also on board were two crew- a student of mine from Tauranga Boy’s college and a friend of a friend who thought that yacht cruising was a case of days on end of ocean bashing and heroic harbour entries.  He didn’t realise that cruising was sheltering from gales, exploring the hinterland, fishing, maintenance, chewing the fat, cooking, bread making, eating and more maintenance. It was generally low level debauchery and indolence.

In those days culinary excellence made itself manifest in the SHERRY LOG.

Whip a bottle of cream into submission.  One by one, soak a chocolate chip cookie in sherry (or your favourite tipple) and sandwich it in the whipped cream, building up the whole lot as a log on a plate.  Leave an hour or two and enjoy. Do not drive.

We cruised into the Coromandel township of Whitianga, offloaded one crew, then walked two miles to a pub in rain for a meat pie and a pint. Whitianga was a depressed rural town recovering from heavy exploitation of its forests.

Fast forward 33 years to another Wild series, the Wild Bird with two wrinkled hedonists aboard.  We anchored in the river as we had done so before, ignoring the flash new marina and picking a narrow spot beside a marked channel.  Many other boats were moored here, on proper blocks, and we had no trouble with the plough and 25 metres of chain resetting itself in the swift river current every six hours.  As long as the wind was abeam.

Flashback, Opua estuary 1980. Ten metres of chain and rope warp was used then, also in a fairly swift stream.  At 2am (nautical events always happen at this time) we awoke to the boat feeling weird. The tide had changed, and the rope wrapped around the keel when the wind rode us over the anchor.  Wild Honey anchored side onto the current, the rope caught on the aft of the keel.  Solution – buoy the anchor warp and set it free, start the motor and then retrieve the buoy and anchor gear.  Lesson learnt.

Rewind to the present again. Wild Bird in a 4 knot current  at 4am with a SW wind blowing up our jacksee rides over the chain at low water, causing the chain to make a din as it rubs against the bottom of the keel.  That’s the end of that idea, and soon a call to the very helpful harbour master has us safely installed on a solid recently inspected mooring.  We’ve tried Tauranga for a berth in a marina, but there are too many hoops to jump (one marina is full, and the other demands insurance be kept)  and besides, the weather for getting there is nothing short of abysmal now for the trip down.

 

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